Rutherford wears its history well. The William Carlos Williams House on Ridge Road was built in 1913, and the poet and doctor lived there for half a century. Over on Felician’s Rutherford campus, the historic Iviswold building sits at the center of it all.
It’s a town full of houses with real character. So when owners here plan an exterior update, they want something that fits.
One option worth a look: adding stone or brick to the front of the house. Maybe along the base. Maybe just around the door.
Two Looks, One Big Decision
Most people start with a gut feeling. That works. Stone feels rustic and earthy. Brick feels classic and tidy. Both can work on a Rutherford street. The real question is which one suits your house.
Thin brick is brick cut down thin, usually somewhere between three-eighths of an inch and an inch. Building codes call it adhered veneer, because it’s stuck to the wall instead of built as a separate brick layer.
Stone veneer gives you more texture and shape. Rough fieldstone, neat stacked ledgestone, and a lot in between.
Weight Decides More Than You’d Think
Here’s the part that’s easy to overlook. A full brick wall is heavy. It typically needs a brick ledge and solid footings to sit on. Thin brick skips all that, which is why it can go on walls that were never built to carry brick.
Stone has the same split. Full bed natural stone veneer runs about 3 to 5 inches thick. Thin natural stone is closer to an inch or two. Manufactured stone is lighter still.
So before you fall for a sample, ask a simple question. What can this wall actually hold?
Either way, the part that matters most is the part you never see. What’s behind the veneer decides how long it lasts.
That’s where a contractor who knows both stucco and masonry earns their keep. Based in Hackensack, Plaster Pro Stucco Contractors handles stucco and stone work in Rutherford, thin brick included. The drive is about six and a half miles.
If you’re leaning toward stone, Bob Vila’s stone veneer primer is a good place to start. It explains the two main types: real stone cut thin, and cultured stone that’s lighter and easier to handle. It also notes that on exterior walls, a weather-resistant barrier belongs behind the metal lath.
That barrier is the unglamorous hero of the whole job. Skip it, and water can get trapped behind a beautiful wall.
Plan for upkeep, too. The same guide suggests sealing stone veneer about four weeks after it goes up, then resealing now and then, especially outdoors. Test the sealer in a hidden spot first, since it can change the color of the stone. Cleaning is easy. A hose usually does it.
Questions to Ask Before Anything Goes Up
A few good questions up front can save you a headache later.
- What’s going behind the veneer, and how will water get out?
- Are there cracks or soft spots in the existing wall that need fixing first?
- Can I see samples outside, on my actual wall, in daylight?
- Is there a finished job nearby I could drive past?
- Does the job need a permit? Check with the borough’s building department.
- Who handles the spot where new stone or brick meets the stucco or siding? That seam is where leaks like to start.
Take your time with the samples. Really. Stone and brick both look different at noon than they do at dusk. Bring them out front, stand across the street, and look again.
Rutherford’s best houses didn’t happen by accident. Somebody sweated the details. It shows.
